• Have some fun creating. Give the plants a place to grow vertically because we are out of space at the ground level. Where else is there to grow things but up?
• Add structure and interest to the garden

One of my fondest memories is to going out to the garden in the dead of winter, just after it has snowed and seeing the structures and the symmetry of what in spring and summer becomes a bunch of plants that, God only knows what they are. (In this case God is Lucy). But at that time, the dead of winter, these arbors, spires or arches that you or I built, are most predominant.

Build to your garden's content.

They don't need to be perfect. Perfect comes when the structure is covered with the life and growth of the garden beginning in spring and lasting throughout the year.

Rigid copper or copper pipe generally comes in 10 foot lengths and is sized by its inside diameter, thus l/2inch = 5/8 outside diameter, 3/4/inch = 7/8 inch outside diameter.

Tubing or soft copper is often sized by outside diameter, (OD), hence to match 1/2" copper pipe to flexible or soft copper it would need to be 5/8 OD, and likewise 3/4 inch tubing may need to be sized as 7/8 inch. It comes in various lengths. Occasionally tubing can still be bought cut to length by the foot, but don't count on finding that service at most of the newer stores.

There are different types of copper. For our purposes just remember that "type M" is medium strength, and "type L" long lasting or heavy duty strength. When purchasing the copper pipe or rigid copper, "type M" is sufficient, (you will cut it into MANY pieces - type M). The tubing or soft copper should be "type L", which is stronger and will not kink as easy while bending, (you will use it for LOOPS- type L).

The fittings are the T's, L's, and you may find uses for 45 degree L's and couplings.

Decide on the plan of what you are going to build. Remember that you are limited to configurations by the fittings. There are no 4 way cross "T's. Construction is accomplished by offsetting 3way "T"s. When calculating measurements, add 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch "T."s, and 1 inch for 3/4" inch "T"s.

Use a tubing cutter, hacksaw or a power saw with a metal cutting blade to cut the pipe and tubing, cut as many pieces as you can prior to beginning assembly. The ends of the lengths should be smooth enough to fit into the fittings. Sand or grind down the burrs as needed, so that the end of the pipe slips easily into the connecting fitting, ie.: tee or ell.

This means after you have cut and fitted the pieces together, the pipe and tubing inserted into the fittings can be easily secured by just using a nail punch on the joints. If the fittings and lengths are attached to a tee or ell, a "punch" can be done by using a nail punch and a hammer to indent the fitting so it grips the pipe at the joint. An that is needed is a small indent into the fitting that will compress the joint and the pipe together, This is a very fast and secure way of building garden structures. Double punching means just put another punch or indentation in another place to further secure the assembly.

Often when connecting rigid (sturdier type L" pipe to the soft copper you may need to solder the connections. If you try to punch the soft copper it just bends too easily, in an upright position this may not be a problem.

Most home improvement centers, hardware stores, and local plumbing supply centers.